WHITECAP's

SAILING

EXCURSION

Veracruz, Mexico to Cancun, Mexico

Jan 9, 2001 - Mar 5, 2001

1. Jan 9, 2001 - Happy New Year from WHITECAP.  I just got word that Dick caught a flight at 07:55 this morning in Halifax and is winging his way back to be with me.  Sure was lonely over the holidays; the guys taking care of me couldn't speak English, so I never knew what was going on.  I can't give you too much information at this point, but will update as soon as the skipper gets a call or e-mail through to home base. TaTa for now.
2. Jan 11, 2001 - Arrived in Veracruz at 00:30 last night, major rain storm in Houston delayed, every flight, then they had to stand in line!!! Got a room and crashed.  WHITECAP is still floating out there; will move aboard this AM.  There is a "norde" blowing now, 40 kt NE winds, so the harbour is closed to small craft; from the hotel, I can see the waves crashing on Isla Sacrificios
   outside the harbour. Cannot leave anyway, have to get the new batteries, and install them. Will also probably have to try and unwind the anchor chains from the mooring we are on,  3 weeks of going in circles must have resulted in quite a mess!!!  Houston was a cold 45 F, Veracruz is 75F and overcast today. 
3. Update, Jan 11 13:00 - Jose, (Hose-aa) my "boat-sitter" took me out to Whitecap this afternoon.  Took half hour to paddle out in the wind. She is bouncing around pretty good out there, cannot stay aboard.  In 3 weeks, the water line has already got growth, Jose says when we take her to the dock, he will dive and clean her off.   Engine batteries (automatic pump hooked to it) and house bank are dead dead;  set up the Honda, she does charge both banks at the same time, the house ones through the external battery charger (but they will not take a full charge) and the engine ones through the Honda DC plug; filled the Honda with gas, she is good for 6 hours.  AS anticipated, the two anchor chains are wrapped around the mooring; will take a diver to extricate the mess.  Boat nice and dry, but the deck is covered in sand, blown in from God knows where, going to need a good hosing at the dock when I get the engine started.  New batteries have not arrived yet. Back to the hotel rent another room for the night. 
   A mexican couple, from Veracruz, I met in Houston airport, Juan and Rosa, invited me to accompany them to Coatzcoalos, about a 3 hour drive, leaving tomorrow Friday and coming back  Saturday; might as well go since we will not be sailing down there and this is the only chance to see that city and also Alvarado. People are very friendly; they wish to practice their English, and I am the only teacher around....
   Another problem, the wind speed propeller is no longer part of our equipment list, so the real problem with the display was obviously a broken shaft. Bill will you please add a new prop to the e-mail to Don Johnson,  at Oakville Yacht Outfitters, and anything else he might think is broke up there. I do not want to go up top more than twice!!! Once to take it down and once to put it back up.. if I can help it. The SYC burgee is also half gone, we have 2 of those left. Our before Christmas new CDN flag is looking pretty ratty, only have 1 of those left, 18 x 36.
4. Further Update, Jan 11, 21:30 Thursday - spent the last 3 hours at an internet cafe, cost me 26 pesos,  (about 15 cents US)  I gave him 30 pesos,  e-mail did not work, but at least my netscape is on line using the PCMCIA card and wire.  but the e-mail keeps trying to dial up from the modem. and I have all that part shut off. 
5. Jan 12, 2001 - Friday turned out to be a beautiful day, winds down, cancel my trip to Coatzacoalos.  Jose and I go out to the boat at 08:00, engine starts on first crack, ammeter goes up to 30 amps.  Jose finds a diver with gear on another boat; by 11:00 we finally have the 2 anchors, each with 150 ft of chain  all back and on the deck!  what a mess.  Everything was wrapped around and around  and around the mooring we were on.  Tried to pay the diver, but he would not take anything.  Get Whitecap back to the dock, and start the cleaning process...  Jose's father tells me while I was gone they had a "norde" with 140 km hr winds!!!  There was sand everywhere,  must have blown all the way from Tecolutla;  all the sheets & haillards, were black on the windward side and white on the back side. The skirts look really dirty, will take them off for the laundry.  By late afternoon we finally have her presentable, too late to dive today.  I asked Jose if he would like to come to Progresso or  Cancun with me.  He seems interested, but has a 9 month old bambino at home. Spent 3 hours looking for the handheld VHF and binoculars, finally found the radio, but be dammed if I could find the binoculars.  Later in the evening Jose, came down with them in a bag,  he was using them to watch the boat from shore during the big storm. Now I have to figure out why the 110V plugs don't work.
6. Jan 13, 2001 - Update Saturday 06:30. don't get to sleep in around here,  one of the boats came into the dock for cleaning at 03:00!! and by 06:30 the dock was full, everyone hosing down the sand.  Every fresh water tap is in use on the dock. Jose is cleaning the boat next door, says he will be cleaning our bottom around noon.  The water here is very salty, all the SS gets surface rust, has to be cleaned with abrasive cloth and hosed with fresh water.  Many of the boats seem to be loading with people going out fishing today.  
7. Update Jan 13, 2001 - Hi everyone it is now 19:35 Veracruz time, getting hungry. Tonites menu is toasted BLT's. Yesterday when I got groceries I asked at the deli for 1/2 kilo bacon.  Guess the translation must have gone wrong, because when I got to the boat I had two kilos. So bacon is king for awhile.
   I froze 3/4 of it; freezer works better since I put the grate on the bottom, air can circulate now.
8. Jan 16, 2001 - It is 09:00...Still here in Veracruz; everything fixed up except the batteries, but yesterday Alberto, Felix's brother in law, drove me to another  battery shop, and there was a sign saying they repaired batteries.  Probably like out at Bobby Arsenault's place; only problem, we did not take a battery out there with us!!!  Today I am going to try and find the place and
   bring a battery with me.  If not I will put them back together and keep them charged with the generator to run the lights at night.
   Headed back up to the internet cafe, still 30 more files to download,   but their electric is off, found a "Red" bank machine just around the corner from there, now I do not have to walk all the way to Centro for a bank,  on the way back, I found a really neat coffee place, super clean,  they grind everything on the spot for each customer! the price is high, 10 pesos, but the atmosphere was worth it.  Coffee to take out is in a styrofoam cup with top which is then placed in a clear baggie with a tie at the top so you can carry it easily!!  I see by the menu they also serve an omelet breakfast for 26 pesos AND the refried beans (frijoles) are 2 more pesos.
   Found out they have mosquitoes here, but they only come out during the night;  guess I will have to put the screens on.  Today the breeze is very light and from the south.  I cannot do the port Captain thing until I know for sure who, if anyone, is coming because they have to be on the crew list, and if they are Mexican, with their equivalent to a SIN.  So I can do that at the last minute.  Paid up at the yacht club, 1500 pesos for the month;  now I have to fix up with Jose for watching over the boat for me.  I think there is a set fee per month for these guys, and they clean, fuel up and all that for the owners.  Jose seems to be the busiest one of all;  he appears to have 4 cruisers to look after as far as I can tell...
   The gentleman who runs the dive shop across the street from the YC, tells me  that there are 3 lighthouses on Triangulo;  one is abandoned, the others usually have 3 or 4 keepers;  he tells me to bring coke, newspapers and books, and they will share what they have.  Their shifts are 6 months long, then a month off.  The lagoon mooring area is sheltered all around, and there is a small wharf.
9. Update Jan 16, 2001 - Arreclife Triangulo is getting more interesting every day.  You cannot anchor there; the depth is over 1000ft in the lagoon...  they have a chain strung across underwater, with a couple of mooring buoys attached.
   Finally got everything, all 38 files, reason it took 3 hours is it picked up several files twice!!!  Must have been when I got kicked off and re-booted...  cost me 480 pesos at the internet cafe,  I am their best customer!!!
   Have a young volunteer to come along with me;  his name is Ulises Wolfango Posadas Prieto.  He is the young boat boy, about 21 or so, from the club here who dove for my rope and Danforth before Christmas;  he is some excited.  I agreed to feed him and a bus trip back to Veracruz, from either Progresso or Isla Mujeres depending how we get along.  Anyway, nice to have company, and I will teach him English along the way...
   Jose's wife would not let him come;  they have a 9 month old bambino, but Jose has been a great help around the boat;  we spent all day today in a taxi rounding up batteries and then he helped me install them.  Over Christmas, he paddled out every day to check her,  except for the grande norte day.   After the batteries died, he pumped her by hand, and he has been working every day for a few hours when I need something done. 
   Got feeling in my finger again, but still numb at the tip;  I guess amputation will no longer be necessary.  Had to move the boat tonight around the corner of the wharf, and while the engine was running the alternator put 14.45V in the new batteries,  that is a good sign...
   I will be doing the Puerto Capitiania stuff tomorrow, and with this "dispacho" we can leave as soon as the coming Norte goes past.  By the way, these things are forecast, they come from Texas, follow the coast and the locals seem to know almost exactly when they are going to arrive, because La Pesca, Tampico etc. have already experienced them.
10. Jan 18, 2001 - The latest hot news: Tomorrow afternoon we have a norte, prognosticated for
    100km winds, so I will be out at a mooring and not be able to come in, or if I am in,  I will be in the hotel watching the wind... and the boat from a balcony.
    Here are some more pictures, That is Wolfango (my new crew) in the water;  Ernie Ferry, from BC who comes down to visit daily, Jose standing on the  dock, maybe I will get a better one, and some of the local red snappers, caught just outside the harbour, they had 42 of them these were the largest...
11. Update Jan 18, 2001 - Am presently in the hotel overlooking the mooring area,  they have prognosticated 100 km winds tonight, and I do not need that aggravation, so I put  WHITECAP back out to the mooring and got a room with a balcony to watch...  Here is a picture of Inga, from Calgary, saw the CDN flag and came down to say hello today,  she has a house boat on the Okanogan in BC.  Ernie Ferry also stopped by today and left a pile of newspapers, I will leave them at Triangulo for the lighthouse keepers.
    Veracruz is a beautiful city, lots of history and statues and churches and navy and.... shrimp, which I have become addicted to.... against Frank Estey's  orders.  Every day I find new things about their history, today I found a street called "25 septembre", I wonder what that is the anniversary of?  Tomorrow I will ask Leo at the YC bar.
    They have a different bands parade up the malecon every night, getting ready for carnival, and there are people everywhere walking,  jogging holding hands with their lady friends, must be the climate!!!.  They tell me Mexican men only love their ladies until they have a few bambinos and get fat, then they get young girlfriends, and the ex-wives then get older men with money, apparently it works out for everyone!!!
    Hope to be in Cancun (Isla Mujeres) in about a week or 10 days.  Wolfango is some excited, today he was busy cleaning deck and washed the waterline, hope he does not wear off the paint!!!  he catches on fast, already he has the windlass cased out;  some easy just pushing the up or down button!!!  he just turned back and smiled!!!   Mary can head down to Cancun any time now;  she should arrive before WHITECAP,  and get a condo for a few days.  You may not hear from us for a few days, not to worry, we will be in Triangulo, or Arcas and there are only 3 people there...
12. Jan 19, 2001 - This is what a El Norte Grande looks like at 09:00 in the morning!!!  and the front did not go through yet.  The old guy who owns the dive shop across the street from the YC tells me It appears the winds will be much higher than 100 km.  He was in the hotel restaurant for breakfast and I joined him.  He is worried about his dive boat and outboard in the surf just behind the yacht club in picture #3.  There is sand all over the hotel room floor, and corridors, glad I closed the computer cover last night...  The windows and doors here are only to keep out intruders, not wind or sand...
    In the back ground of picture #3 you can see Isla Sacrificios, and the surf outside the harbour.  The two pictures of the anchorage show waves crashing on the breakwater lighthouse.  WHITECAP  is anchored just above the arrow in the first picture.  Glad I am not out there!!!
    Looks like I will be staying in the hotel another night;  well at least they have hot water showers.
13. Update Jan 19, 2001 - Noon - Here are a few more pictures taken from the 6th floor swimming pool deck.  One shows part of the shrimp fleet caught in the windward corner.  Another
    shows waves splashing over the malecon pescadores.  Wolfango and his brother, spent last night aboard the large cruiser in the foreground. Loco eh!!  Well the view is nice from up here on the 6th floor, but the wind howling and whistling is unbelievable.  Think I will walk over to the internet cafe to send this stuff.
    Just for contrast, here is a picture of WHITECAP  anchored in the same place, the morning after I got back down here.
14. Jan 20, 2001 - Saturday. Got back out to the boat for a few minutes;   Wolfango got one of
    the dinghies and we walked it all along the pescadores pier out to where WHITECAP is, and then paddled over across the waves,  I wanted to pick up a sweater and my diving regulator, which I am having checked out.   If it is still ok, I can buy a used aluminum tank, hydrostated to 2007, at the dive shop for US$140, he also has wet suits on sale for US$180 at 50% off (titanium chest) but I will think again.  I have my special mask, flippers, Mustang "mae west" and stuff all on the boat.
    There was stuff, mostly books,  all over the cabin sole from the bouncing around!!!  Guess I should have packed the garage (upper berth) better.  The new batteries are showing 12.25 Volts, after two days running the fridge, I am very happy with that, but the boat is all covered in black sand again!!!  Ah! at least it will hose off !!
    The harbour is now opened to large vessels, but still "cerrado" (closed) for us.  It blew some hard;  the red flag is gone form the signal pole, and my CDN flag only has one red stripe.  There were 8 large container ships, that I could see out there waiting.  The other day the authorities found 65 stow-a-ways from Dominican Rep on board one of the ships;  they were  ultimately
    heading for the US.
    Wolfango tells me another norte is coming tomorrow Sunday, but I have not seen a marine forecast.  There was nothing posted at the Port Captain's office,  so I don't think it will be a big one if it exists at all, like this last one.
    The sun came out for an hour this afternoon, but it is still cold, I brought in my "Ritz-Carleton" sweater from the boat,  now I am too warm. I am watching old dusters on TV translated into Spanish, the one on now is "Geronimo",  good way to learn the lingo. 
    Well the sun is up there somewhere behind the clouds, the winds and surf are still up outside, so today I will bring WHITECAP back to the dock, and start cleaning again!!  I will send this later as have to pass the Internet cafe,  on my way back from the Basilica in Centro.
15. Jan 21, 2001 - Sunday evening,  Toasted BLT's again without the L, Just eating and Ernie
    Ferry came along with a bag of old newspapers for the boys at Triangulo;  we spent the evening chatting and listening to Rita MacNeill, (my only tape), and having a rum.  Wolfango was right, we do have another norte;  after Ernie left, I loosened the stern lines from the dock and wound up 5 ft of chain, to get away from the pier.  During the night, the winds came up again, they were 40 - 50 km, so I bounced around, Picked up the dive tank, and a Titanium chest wet suit, weights belt etc,  "Carlos" is trying to gather enough money to go to New Orleans on Tuesday for a big underwater trade show, and buy his next summer equipment.
    Had a visitor today, Salvador Vidal (nickname Chaba),  he owns the Restaurant Lorenzillis and a lobster farm (spiny) Punta Sam, near the Isla Mujeres ferry dock in Cancun.
16. Jan 22, 2001 - Monday morning, bacon and egg, toast and milk for breakfast.  Determined to
    eat all that bacon, it is beautiful stuff!! (Imagine getting to the point that bacon is beautiful) still have 1.5 kilo left.  Weather cloudy, no one around the dock this morning, which is strange around here;  winds still up;  this should pass today and we can head out. I now have been in Veracruz
    longer than I was home for Christmas!!.  Will send this on my way to Centro this AM.
17. Jan 28, 2001 - WHITECAP here......quick telepatch to home to let you all know I've crossed the Bahia de Campeche to the north side of the Yucatan Peninsula and am about 20 miles from Progreso in a small fishing village of about 400.  I got my first taste of coral....it's pretty scratchy stuff..... tomorrow, the skipper and Wolfango are going to dive under and check my bottom to make sure I fared OK in my little tryst;  I don't think coral is as biting as granite sharks, but I'll let you know as soon as we can get the proverbial e-mail patch.
18. Update Jan 28, 2001 - Writing this on the "fly".  we are 13 miles off the west side of Yucatan, about abeam of Isla Piedra,  Celestun is 30 miles up ahead. We have been out now for 6 days, got  caught in a 50 km wind after Triangulo so we just hove-to and drifted south all night until off Campeche, when the wind died we slopped for awhile then picked up a nice easterly, and are now off Piedra.  Since we cannot use the engine (it is ok in neutral) we are using the Honda to charge the batteries, so far we have used the 5 gal outboard fuel and have only 1 gallon gas left.  I can probably hail a fisherman for more as we close the shore. Will get a tow into Celestun basin, and check the bottom for damage from the coral at Triangulo which was a disaster, we thought this was going to be Whitecap's graveyard.... we struck coral reef and hung up 3 times;  laid over and heard the crunch sound on the belly....oh that hurt...bounced off with the jib laying her over... the place is  even abandoned by the lighthouse keepers!!!  and we brought a big bag of newspapers, 24 cans of coke and a bottle of rum for them....    We are taking a little water but not near as much as in Lake Ontario; the poor bottom must look like hell.  Then a few hours later, a God awful noise from the engine room, shut her down and sailed with jib only;  tore the clew out of the Hood, replaced it with #2 North but fouled up the halliard with the spinnaker halliard, so she would not roll up...  then the wind really blew (to 55 we heard) so we just hove-to and drifted south all night.  By morning when the wind died, we were below Campeche and 40 miles out, where to go??,  decided to try for Celestun, sure enough the winds came from the east and we had a glorious all day sail arriving at 14:30 a daylight stop!!!
19. Update Jan 28 evening - We are in Celestun basin; got towed in to the harbour by a fishing boat; the other outside beach  wharf was an open roadstead, met couple Cheryl and Dudley, who loaned us 100 ft extension cord so we could plug in to the Heilo factory across the road. Also a couple from Gaspe in an RV, who are building a home in Puerto Aventuras on the Carrib side, we have to call them when we get there, and at a restaurant last night, I  had shrimp cocktail US$4.50 could not eat it all, have doggie bag, met a young man from Montreal!!!  Wolfango thinks I know everyone in Canada!!!. There are hundreds and hundreds of fishing skiffs in here, and they only have one speed...
20. Jan 29, 2001 -  Went to Cheryl and Dudley's for breakfast, Wow, beautiful home on the waterfront, had been abandoned for 13 years, no doors or windows, they are doing a bang up job fixing it up, all Mexican tiles and stone, with a 7 ft stone wall all around except for the water side, they have 3 turkeys in the yard which act as guard dogs...  then Cheryl took us for fruit and stuff, left our laundry at a hotel for cleaning, lady says to come back at 17:00.  This afternoon we will fill all the fuel tanks, the Pemex is just alongside the dock.  Port Captain says, "norte" tomorrow, harbour will be closed,  plan to head for Yucalpeten/Progresso 50 miles away early morning, on first opportunity. There I will replace the transmission.
    Tonight I did not feel like cooking, so Wolfango went to pick up the laundry, I told him to pick up his supper, he came back with a "moriscada", which was shrimp, snail and octopus in a tossed salad and a spicy juice for US$3.50,  We dined by candlelight, I had the doggie bag shrimp cocktail.  Wolfango does the dishes.  The port Captain came for a visit with 2 teenage sons, and we showed pictures of the trip, using the program "Paint Shop".  Very nice gentleman,  he tells us to close up the boat when we go in town, he does not want anything to go missing in his town.
21. Jan 30, 2001 - The fishers start early, everyone going out for the day comes to our dock for ice, everyone coming in stops here to unload their nets and sell their catch, the others just go back and forth at full speed,  everyone just bounces around.
    Breakfast today is bacon and eggs, and burnt toast.  Two young girls (sisters) come by on a bike, about 12 and 10, I give one a hair clip we found, they took off behind a small cement block building, and came back in a few minutes, the older one had done up the others hair with the clip, and they came back to show me...  I took their picture, enclosed, they were pretty proud. Tell Mary to bring many hair clips; it makes the little ones really smile!!!  Went to Sherrill and Dudley's to send e-mail, this AM, could not send, but received 6. Spent the afternoon at the Flamingo National Preserve, there are an estimated 25,000 birds there, their color comes from water rich in carotene and which is also a shrimp breeding ground.  We also went into the mangroves, there are many underground rivers which just bubble clear drinking quality water, to the surface, and mix with the salt water in the lagoon making it brackish.  We went by taxi, a moped with two back wheels and a seat for two passengers, here is the picture and also one of Sherrill and Dudley's, and one of the flamingos of course and mangroves. We are leaving the harbour at high tide tonight, and will anchor off the town wharf, so we can leave early in the AM 
22. Feb 1, 2001 - For the first time we see several sailboats around here, the first since Port Isabel except for one in Veracruz. We had a busy day today, this morning, visitors Harry and Gail Haslet, who sail a 35 ft sailboat in Toronto, and who have sailed their boat to Belize and the Rio Dulce, invited us to supper at the beachfront home they are considering about 5 miles west of here, the same ones we passed along the beach yesterday sailing in, they saw the Canadian flag.  I asked them if they knew Jack and Marge Mansell, they did not, for some reason, off and on, I have been thinking of Jack Mansell for the past week or so, do not know why, will e-mail karen larsen to check on him.
    Spent the day unhooking the engine, by 15:00 we had her in the cabin and the transmission off.  Dick has a bedmate for the night in the quarter berth, just roll over and Mercedes is there, only she don't smell too rosy... Harry and Gail came at 16:00, Wolfango would not come, says he did not have dress up clothes... first home cooked meal since home a month ago, thanks Gail and Harry, I think the house is worth it. It poured rain for about half hour tonight, first in three months. Tomorrow, we will go to Merida for the day with Felix, the marina manager, who goes to visit his mother every Friday.  Felix used to run a tourist schooner from Cancun to Isla Mujeres, until he was severely injured in a motorcycle  accident and was left with severe impediments, which his attitude about life make up for.  Back mid-afternoon and will install the new transmission, maybe drop her back in the hole, if not there is still Saturday..... what the hell this is Mexico.
23. Feb 3, 2001 - Well, good job yesterday was a good day, because today ain't so good... First off, it rained all night, had to get up, bear arse, climb out of the quarter berth over the engine, close all the windows and hatches, raise the dodger, shut down the Honda and put it back in the cockpit, then climb back in the quarter berth, all wet and try to read for awhile.  Dawn brought us a
    cloudy day.  First thing to check after shaking off the cobwebs, is the clutch plate and get it off, yep!! The sucker's spline is almost completely chewed up, just what we do not need. And... this is the spare part Mary was to bring down.... but now she is not coming until the 19th.  The problem has been, we have never had a matched pair, the clutch plate goes, we replace the plate, the transmission goes we replace the transmission, never both at once.  And now we are putting a new transmission in!!! The dilemma, do we put the engine back in the hole and not hook her up, sail to Isla Mujeres and wait???  Or do we sit here??? No we cannot stay here, this marina is in development, we are 1 mile from the nearest bus, no phone or electric.  We also found a crack in the SS exhaust riser, must have gotten froze at one time, will get that welded also while it is off.   There are about 1000 fishing boats in this harbour, do we suppose we may find just be the right part here???  Jeff Dutton the marina owner's brother is coming to check our electrical this afternoon, I will ask, but of course today is Saturday and tomorrow is Sunday..... and Monday is Constitution Day.... ah well Mexican time...
    By noon we have all the parts changed over to the new transmission, (mount, shaft isolation & vibration disc, shift bracket, oil cooler etc...)  this afternoon we will scrub down the engine room with soap and water.
     Things we also need, cans of sardines, we are out;  imagine, for lunch this boy (Wolfango) wants a can of sardines!!! feed that to a Canadian.... you would be up in front of a judge.!!!
24. Feb 4, 2001 -  we replaced the water in the fresh tank, with new, and javex'd it well, it was starting to smell rotten, but it has been in there since La Pesca.
25. Update Feb 4, 2001 -  Sunday. Bright sunny hot 90F day, did a walk-about but cannot seem to get motivated. All kinds of small and large powerboats moving around the harbour, even saw two Sea-Doo's. This afternoon about 10 sailboats were sailing around, Think we will put the outboard on the dink and do the same this afternoon...  but broke the outboard gas tank fitting, rigged up a temp patch, and motored down the back cove towards town looking for the outboard dealer, all kinds of sailboats down in the back cove, looks like a lot of US vessels left for winter storage, it is probably much cheaper here than Isla Mujeres.  
26. Feb 5, 2001 - Well a wasted trip to town this aft, got online but could not send, only receive.  Only one message... from Fast Eddie, he tells me I cannot drive through the reefs, I have to go around!!!  words of a sage!!!
    Got a drive to Progresso from a boater Gabriel, on his way back to Merida, anyway no luck with the part yet;  Jeff is coming in the morning to take me to Merida, if I cannot find anything there, I will phone Jim at Federal Transmissions in Michigan.  If I end up with two, (if Mary brings one down) so be it.  We could already be underway if we had the part.  I also found the phone # for Velvet Drive in New Bedford MA. and I will phone Mark, their head tech, to get his opinion on why!!!  Maybe I will/should do this before I phone Jim.
    Gail Haslan appeared at the same internet cafe, and  offered me a drive back to the boat;  Gail and Harry have been over to Peurto Aventuras to visit with their daughter, for a few days,  got sick on Margaritas;  there is a shortage of real Tequila, and there is bootleg stuff out there,,, Harry says stick to rum.  There is a coffee shop in Progreso next to the internet cafe where all the Canadians gather at lunch daily, then they break off somewhere else to play crib,  will explore more tomorrow maybe. 
    Wolfango had the engine room all scrubbed down when I came back, and was busy cleaning haillards, taking them down one at a time using a pilot line to put them back up;  they are all black from Veracruz sand!!
    I think now with the engine out, I will move the refrigeration compressor to the aft side of the same bulkhead under the next hatch, where it will be easier to work on and there is lots of room.  It is presently US, and I lost some of my prized bacon!!!  so perhaps Peter Mellish can figure out why,  get the part from HMP (quick, quick) and send it with Mary,  He had the same problem with his.  I checked for fuses and all that stuff everything OK
27. Update Feb 5, 2001 - Monday. Cloudy day, winds blew hard last night from the north east, every ripple hit under the stern quarter, will have to turn the boat around!!!  This is the "norte" they talked about last night. This morning I  toured the boatyards with my clutch plate, no luck, everything closed for the holiday,  I guess I will call Jim at Federal Transmissions in Michigan and get one Fed Ex'd to here...  Jim got me out of this same dilemma in November 1999 in Lake Michigan,  Jeff says he will take me to Merida and look there.  To top everything our refrigeration has quit, maybe because of the low batteries, or hopefully a fuse somewhere... lost some of my good bacon!!!
    Jeff says he will check it out when he does the electrical. We have not been plugged in now for 12 days, and are relying on the Honda to charge us up, but she only puts in 10 amps, and we need 5 amps just to run the boat.
    Here are some pictures:
    Felix, only has long term memory and can walk with difficulty, Jeff tells me, he had two motorcycle accidents, the first one did most of the damage, and the second he went through a stop sign and a truck ran him over; he has been re-couperating for 5 years.  He lives here at the Marina, in the office, and acts as manager/night watchman, teaches sailing on weekends in dinghy's.  A piece of the Laguna Mar marina, with Felix sailing his dinghy.  A Merida Street scene and a very opulent mansion in the old city.  There are many of these large homes in Merida, but most are now company offices or converted to apartments. 
    This afternoon I will go by bus to Progresso to the Internet cafe.
28. Feb 7, 2001 - Wednesday, Went to Progreso early, Felix came along, and we dinghy'd down the
    lagoon and a canal all the way to downtown Progresso, found a new outboard fuel tank at the Johnson dealer.  I went to check that Chris received the fax, he did, but the address at Mike's shop was incomplete, no CP#, FedEx would not accept!!!  Felix goes and gets the address of his cousin Carlos, a shipping agent, a few doors down the street.  Write up another fax and send
    it, this will delay us by another day, and then we are into the weekend, so maybe we will finally get the part by next Tuesday.  Had lunch at "The Shark" a waterfront restaurant along the beach, it was designed by Felix's brother.  Progreso, has a wharf, which stretches 5 miles
    out into the Gulf and ends at a man made island, the water is very shallow, creating a beautiful white sandy beach which extends 25 miles eastward.  No wonder it is a popular destination for snowbirds, and the beachfront houses go for under 1400 CDN / month.
    Here are some pictures. the beach scene shows the wharf which is 5 miles into the Gulf,  the lighthouse is inland, and here, they keep old cars running forever!!!
29. Feb 9, 2001 - Yesterday Jeff Dutton took the "printed circuit motherboard" off of the compressor, and sure enough it had gotten wet in the storm off Triangulo and burnt the neg wire off.  He cut open the board and soldered a new wire and presto we now have refrigeration again, but will need the new  board to fix it permanently properly.
    Today we got up at 06:00; walked the mile to the local bus, and caught the  "directo" to Merida again.  Felix visits his mother every Friday, so we traveled with him.  Last night when I went to write my log, when I booted the laptop, I suddenly got a 6" black circle in the centre of the screen, then a series of circles started spinning towards the centre, it took up all the memory and everything stopped!!!  After several tries, I was able to get the name "spirale" but could not find my copy of McAphee, so today we are in  Merida looking for a copy.  The young man at this internet cafe, is trying to locate it for me.  I will come back this afternoon..
    The new clutch plate part, did not get shipped until yesterday (Thursday) because of an address mix-up;  good job I called Boston back and corrected it, or I would be waiting for nothing.  This new piece has three sets of springs, each with different stiffness, so that it will be "softer" in the idle mode which is apparently where our problem is.  We thought it would be the opposite, and that we were abusing it. But after Triangulo, we still have the boat intact, but with lots of scratches underneath from the coral, and the leak has stopped, because hare at Laguna Mar marina we are sitting in 2 ft of mud at low tide;  she simply just sucked up enough to plug the crack!!! Just like Farley Mowatt did on the Miscouche Shoals in "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float".  I only have to pump for 30 seconds once daily.
    The other day we launched the dinghy and motored up the lagoon and a man made canal, all the way to Progreso, and we spent the day touring around there.  All the Canadians congregate at a certain restaurant daily, so we stopped there for a cerveza, then went to the beautiful beach which extends for 25 miles eastward.  No wonder the place is loaded with Canadians, a beachfront home with maid service goes for $1400 a month. Felix and I had dinned at "the Shark" a restaurant designed by this brother, before we finished the chef came out with a fish platter for us with his compliments. 160 pesos (US$16) including 2 dble rums. The pier here goes 5 miles out into the Gulf imagine like all the way to our DE buoy and further, that is how far they have to go to get 40 ft water!!!
    Anyway, that is the update for today.  If anyone has messages, send them through the guest book until I can get my e-mail working again, probably at Isla Mujeres.
30. Feb 10, 2001 - Well today is Saturday, and Wolfango dinghyed me to town, and I caught a Combi to Progreso.  No sign of our part, it is in Merida, but Fed Ex does not deliver on Sat!  earliest will be Monday afternoon now.  There is a Norte scheduled for the first three day next week, so cannot go anywhere anyway.
    Got the computer virus fixed, would be nice to have a copy of McAphee on board, can anyone help???
    Wolfango has a young lady coming to visit him today, an old schoolmate from Tabasco, she planted a big kiss on him yesterday, when she saw him in Merida. He asked if it was OK to invite her to the boat and I said Si Si.
    The MacGregor Catamaran that was tied up behind us left this AM, they called on the radio, and are powering to Legartos,  80 miles away.
    All for now.
31. Feb 11, 2001 - Well, yesterday I had Wolfango dinghy me to Yucalpeten wharf, and took the
    combi to Progreso,  No part yet, Fed Ex does not deliver Saturdays, next delivery will be Monday after 3PM.  Damn, and the part is only 20 miles away.
    Spent the day exploring Progreso, must have walked 10 miles, thought there would be roaming taxis along the beach road, but no luck, had to walk all the way back to the taxi stand, got back to the boat, had a banana and a rum, in that order, and went to bed at 18:00.  Woke up in a cold sweat around 02:00, sheets were all wet, put a dry towel down and crawled back in.  Finally woke up at 08:30. Must have caught something, but am OK this morning.
    Today is a bright clear sky day, and the winds are down to a light breeze.  Wonder where the MacGregor cat is this AM, it blew really hard last night on their nose, and they had 2 ladies with them that looked and acted like they were just along for the ride!!! The only shelter would be down inside the hulls, the rest of the boat is all deck.  Bet they had fun!!!
    I hope I can find out why I am not sending e-mail, there are 20 in my outbox now.  Here are some more pictures: the beautiful cathedral in Merida viewed from the municipal building balcony, 2 more Laguna Mar scenes one showing Whitecap in the background,  they have electric on the far shore! and one of the new cement dock showing Gabriel's Dufour 27 Resolute and another of the
    McGregor cat leaving for Isla Mujeres
32. Feb 12, 2001 - Just a few things;  some where along the way we broke most of the wires on the port upper intermediate stay, the little one that stops vibration above the spreaders, the old one was just nicopressed at the top.  Went up the mast twice yesterday, nice view, the jib halyard was wrapped around the forestay 4 times and wound itself down inside the foil cutting a 3" grove along the way,  I was able to unwind 2 loops, but the others were truly jammed in, so I cut the halyard and the fitting off (2 cuts) and tucked the sharp ends in, taped them in, and now the 2 loops are acting as a bushing in there!!!  Harken should have a cast or machined fitting up there to prevent this from happening!!!  In all I lost about 6" of halyard, not to worry.
    Came to town today, to see if the part for the transmission is here yet (Monday afternoon) there was no delivery here on Saturday. We are all ready to drop her back in.  It is the printed circuit board that is gone on the fridge, the neg post got salt water in the storm and burnt up, the temp fix only worked a day, but at least we know what is wrong, Hope that is the part Peter ordered...
    The MacGregor cat that was here, left for Isla Mujeres and that night we had a norte;  there were two ladies aboard, and only the hulls to get shelter in, everything else is deck.  Today the winds shifted, and if they got around Cabo Catoche, they have it on the nose again...
    If I think of anything else, I will send another note today.  By the way had a virus Spirale,  got it fixed in Merida, but it came back the next day when I restored my desktop;  found it in a boot up file and rem'd out the line.  The file is called Aakaaka so watch for it....
33. Feb 13, 2001 - To day is tomorrow already;  I am back in town;  it is 11:30 Mex time, dinghyed in up the canal.  Wolfango is filling the 3 x 5 gal deck tanks at the Pemex by the bridge, and will take them back to the boat.  It is a 7 minute dinghy ride full speed, and I can walk to Centro in 5 minutes from the bridge.  Headed to the bank for the duty money,.... damm...
    A few more things to load Mary down with, canned Waddells is getting low, a dozen or so 3/4" ss round head robertsons, also dove soap is not available here.  No doubt Mary will now arrive in Cancun before me, and I cannot do a thing about it. She should watch out for Beckey and Buddy Wallace on Destiny, (looked after Whitecap in Aberdeen) they were in Key West 2 weeks ago waiting for weather to come across. Also there is the guy who owned the lobster factory who said to contact him if any problems.
    I will be in town until late this aft, and will come back on before I leave.
34. Update - Feb 13 - Hi, it is now 17:00 Mex time.  The part just came a few minutes ago;  it does have three different springs to take care of the problem.  Paid the 1080 pesos duty....it hurts!!!   Now back to the boat.  Tomorrow I will take this and the old clutch plate to Mikes machine shop in Merida and have a ring made to fit the flywheel; then we are in business. Everyone have a drink for me tonight to celebrate, even on Tuesday.  Will come back on tomorrow.
35. Feb 14, 2001 - Well, things are in the works, the clutch plate and bell housing are both at the machine shop getting fitted out, I am working on some clean up wiring.
    This morning, "Juan Manuel" Mier Y Teran (a brother of Felix ), came to visit, he and his wife Judy Abbott own a CS 2 "Grumpy" at Marina Paraiso in Isla Mujeres, they will be there this Friday to welcome Mary to Mexico, and arrange accommodations for her, Juan Manuel and Judy own the magazine "Yucatan Today", and we discussed buddy boating to Belize and Rio Dulce, a
    trip they wish to do also. I told him about "Destiny", Buddy and Beckey Wallace, should also be somewhere near Isla Mujeres, and he will be watching for them also, he says the marinas there are packing up with boats, but he will find room for us somewhere.
    After lunch I decided to head out to the port captain's to do the bank receipt thing, he tells me I have to do this both for "in" and "out".  OK as long as I know, but I told him I did not want to have to go to the bank twice and he instructed his assistant to give me the second set of papers,
    so I can pay both at the same time.  Great.  Jeff tells me even the local sailors have to do this, but their "permit" lasts a month at a time.  We Dinghy across the channel to catch the bus, and there, on the dock, were some of the Canadian people I met in Progreso yesterday afternoon,  down here looking for me, one Ed Winchester is formally from Summerside, now living in Sudbury (born in Belmot Lot 16, raised on Duke St. between Notre Dame and North Market, Mrs. Harry Crossman on East St, is a sister and Mel Winchester is a brother).  We dinghed to the boat 2 at a time, and spent a delightful cocktail hour or two. Here is a picture, starting from right side: Anna
    Ouelette, Mary Mathieu, Ed Winchester, all from Sudbury and Killarney, and Ed and Rosemarie Toomath from Oswego Beach, and Charles Mathieu.  Small world Eh!!! Sorry about the rope  in front of Ed's face.
36. Feb 15, 2001 - Well the parts are still at the machine shop, I expect them later today, Thursday.  Had a nice visit on the boat yesterday, Ed Winchester from Sudbury and 5 friends;  Ed was brought up on Duke St. has a sister married to Harry Crossman on East St and a brother Mel;  we had an enjoyable cocktail hour. Fun, The picture is in the outbox if I ever get to send them.
    Came to town early today, we are getting out of canned goods also;  the Waddells is all gone, bring more!!!,  Last night Felix came for Dinner;  we had spaggetti, and I added drained cans of the following: black olives, bar clams, mushrooms, jalapeneos. Turned out pretty good, at least they ate it all.
    I am also doing the bank thing for the port Captain, it seems the $141 pesos is for "IN",  and "OUT" is another $141 pesos!!!  They are even trying to tack this on the local yachters!!!  Imagine having to go to the bank, 5 miles away, every time you wish to go sailing.... I told him I was walking, and was not going to do the bank thing twice, after discussion (it is his country) he told his assistant to give me a second set of papers, so I can pay the bank only once for both!!! Stupido eh?
    I am missing my passport, I am sure I tucked it away and had a senior moment about where;  I remember it was getting bent so I put it under something.
    We are 3 days from Isla Mujeres, depending on the winds, a NW or SW or even S wind would be great, anything that does not have East in it and we can fly (so to speak).
37. Feb 17, 2001 - Well it's Saturday night in Yucalpeten. 21:00 local time.  I just came from Ed Winchester's beach house;  went out there for a drink and they fed me supper! They just told me the other day, if you pass the orange crush sign, you have gone too far, and sure enough, they were all sitting in the courtyard thinking about WHITECAP... Anyway nice visit, and I caught the last Cambio back to town.
    Removed the refigeration today, cleaned up the wiring and starter bendix, thought we would get the transmission back on but it would not slide into place;  Jeff is coming tomorrow, and says he will help us. So we should get everything back in the hole Sunday (tomorrow). There is a norte, and the winds are not good for a few days but by the time we are ready, they should change.  Anyway, got a new bottle of rum and am heading back to the boat.
38. Feb 20, 2001 - Finally we are ready to go, just have to re-install the exhaust system and hook up a few wires, and bingo...
    Guess Mary will be there before us, but we plan to leave tonight after dark at high tide.  We should be around Cabo Catoche in 36 hours or so. The winds are shifting to the SE which is good until Catoche.  Mujeres is only 35 miles from there, and when the winds go N again it will be a reach.
    Orlando, one of the sailors from the Marina, will be coming with us.
    Next message will be from Isla Mujeres.
39. Feb 24, 2001 - Well, this is Isla Mujeres;  got here in 47 hours from Progresso;  had to get a new dispacho and got delayed for a day, because we added a third crew, Orlando from the marina.
    Mary was patiently walking the beaches waiting for us... the sail, indeed the Isla Contoy reef was something else;  for 13+ miles she sticks up for 6" above the surface and we were only 100 ft away!!!  This marina is very accommodating.  Juan Manuel and his wife Judy Abbott are here.  I am re-installing the compressor (refrigeration) in another location,,,, the part Peter sent is the correct one, and I will cover it with a plastic bag this time..
    Plan to leave here next Wed or Thursday for Peurto Morales, and then Tulum and Belize. There is a new fee in Mexico, US$ 14 for in and again for out, and this will be for each harbour!!!  so we will just head for Belize as quickly as possible.
    Will send pictures tomorrow.
40. Feb 28, 2001 - Well we are pretty well cleaned up here, everything working again, except the 2 fwd cabin lights, the switches just broke off!!!  I have been looking for replacements and someone is going over to ACE hardware in Cancun today and will check there.  Back home we just have to go to Radio Shack and buy 50 if we are so inclined.
    The "African Queen" fits and looks good, a few mods and it will be perfect, I forgot about the backstay adjuster system, and I wish the battens were a little longer... but it works and keeps the deck shaded.
    Hoping to leave here  Friday, predicting easterlies 15kt and 5 ft seas, should be good for us, and have to get Wolfango on a bus back to Veracruz. We have pictures of all the grandchildren on the wall, and he added his yesterday!!!  We cannot take him into Belize as he has no passport, and the
    Mex Govt does not issue passports to anyone who has not done their year of Army service.  Yesterday he went swimming with a spear gun and snorkel, came back with a 24" barracuda, a 12" red snapper and something else for Mary to cook.
    Juan Manuel and Judy on Grumpy cannot leave here until the 20th of March, her relatives are coming on the 15th, so we will have to head out alone,  there is another boat wanting to go also, but he is waiting for a new prop for his outboard, which will not arrive until mid-next week.  Here are the latest pictures, the back seat driver in the front seat of the golf cart,  Orlando, Wolfango and Mary on arrival in Isla Mujeres, and our African Queen.
41. Mar 1, 2001 - Thought we would be out of here tomorrow, but there is constant things to fix, today´s turn is the searchlight, the switch got wet in the storm and shorted out, so today Mary and I took the ferry over to Cancun again, and headed for ACE hardware looking either for a new switch or a new spotlight.  Like to have one working, just in case.
    Tried to send today from the Marina PARAISO office, got online, received 11 but would not send the 25 in our outbox... also the spirale virus thing came back today.... so it must have a hidden file somewhere which tells it to repeat in 2 weeks, as it just did.
    I am at an internet cafe and have a floppy so I will try the hotmail account, if it works, Bill will get some pictures, if it does not, guess we will have to try later.
    Wolfango wants to stay here for a while and we are arranging with another boat out of St Augustine, to take him on for awhile, but I will make sure he has a bus ticket to Veracruz. He wants to stop in Tabasco and visit his parents also.  We tried to get him a passport, but the Mex govt will not issue one until he has completed 1 year of army service.  We thought we may bring him to S´Side for the summer to learn English.  We have pictures of all the grandchildren on the wall, and yesterday, Wolfango´s picture appeared with the others!!!  Yesterday, he also announced that the day before he was 19 and today he was 20, so that is his way of telling us it was his birthday!!! We bought a cake.
42. Mar 05, 2001 - Tried to send using hotmail today, no luck and the phone lines went down after that;  anyway here are the plans: got our "dispacho" today, plan to leave before noon Mar 6 tomorrow, for Peurto Moreles.  Winds are pretty high from the N 35+ just now, lovely but not quite Mary's cup of tea.  HOPING THEY WILL BE DOWN IN THE AM.
    Today we arranged to put WHITECAP on the hard, here in Isla Mujeres in late April, this is the only travel lift within 450 miles each way except for Florida, which is not in the plan... 6 months will give the damage time to dry out, and we can enjoy Belize and Guatamala for the next 6 weeks then come back here, down current and down wind. Hopefully we will be beyond San Pedro when Cindy and Evan arrive, but for now the plan is to meet them in Belize City on the 16th.  To confirm we will call on the 13th for sure.  All is well, Wolfango will surely miss us, and I have arranged a bus ticket back to VERACRUZ FOR HIM.  He has been doing some boat bottom cleaning here, and the yachters think he is a great worker.
    Will send more perhaps from Peurto Adventuras in 2 days.  We do not plan to stop in Cozumel as the Port Capt requires an agent, at $US250, so we will pass by. All the yachters are boycotting the place.
    Alls well, sorry to hear about Bobby G. and the snow, but take heed, we had a 15 degree temp drop last night, it went down to 80F!!! and we were cold.  Wolfango was watching a spanish movie on the cabin TV, and Mary and I were watching RONIN on the laptop DVD in the cockpit, decadent eh??